Finishing - page 4

1/09/05 -

The sun was shining and warm so I thought it would be a good day to paint the Ailerons, Elevators and Rudders. I painted the Ailerons and Elevators with Dupli-color Silver and they look great. I wanted to paint those with a different paint than the rest of the aircraft because they should look like they were painted while the airframe shouldn't. The Rudders got a base coat of Testors flat white. They are ready for the red horizontal stripes and blue vertical stripe but I'll wait a few days for the white paint to cure.

Some B-24's had a trim tab on both ailerons and some had trim only on the right aileron. I don't know for sure but the model's going to use only one. Before covering I cut a v-groove on the bottom of the from tab and deeply scored the edges. After covering it looks like it could move but can't.

I had some aluminum strut in my scrap bin so I cut out a couple pieces and they made great trim control fairing's

I find myself in a conundrum on this project. As I approach 2 years of working on it I'm getting a bit burnt out, or is it just too cold in the shop?, or just the fact that I hate the finishing part of every project, or all three!. I trudge along but I can't seem to get my heart into it. On the other hand, I want to see it finished and can see light at the end of the tunnel. I wasn't going to give myself anymore deadlines but they do keep me going,so.. I have set myself a deadline of April for it's first flights so I can fly it at the I.M.A.A. West coast festival in May.

1/20/06 - Not really finishing but something that needs to get done before painting..

 

The front brace strut is 3/16" aluminum tube with a nylon control rod inside with a 2-56 threaded rod and half of a clevis. I drilled & tapped the main gear aluminum block for a 4-40 screw and glued in a plywood block into the wing to mount the strut. When I decided to put the braces on, it meant more work but it was worth it. It looks great and is functional too. But it did mean that a bigger hatch would have to be made. For that I cut out the nacelle enough to give access to mount the strut, glued that part to the hatch I already made and then cleaned it all up. The upper strut mount has to be inline with the gear pivot point and just fit next to the wing tube which works well because it ties the strut to the wing tube.

The gear door is not 100% scale because it's not hinged in the middle. Because the gear geometry is not 100% scale, the door attachment couldn't be either. The trick was to make the door stick close to the strut and move down when the gear is down and be about 1/4" off the strut and move away from the wheel so it sits flush with the wing and in the right spot.

 

I worked on trying to get a nice reliable side strut that folds up like the full scale but finally settled on using a telescoping strut for the side brace strut simply because it's more reliable and much more simple. It won't do any bracing but that's OK.

1/25/06 - Panel Lines

I have struggled over whether to do raised panel lines before paint or just draw them on after paint. The latter would get me done sooner but was too much of a shift from putting the aluminum panels on that I just had to take the time and do it right.

I started on those lousy cowls I have. Having cut them down to the correct length a long time ago I still needed to re-do the cowl flaps. I opted to not cut the flaps out but to have them in the retracted position for better streamlining. Someday I want to make new, lighter, closer to scale cowls and have working flaps but that can wait.

Cutting down the cowls cut right through the flaps to I had to fill with micro balloons and resin to create new flaps.

 

 

After filling and sanding I made a template and drew the panel lines on all four cowls. After finding out that it's real hard to get 1/64" tape, I cut them myself from fine line tape and put them carefully on the cowls. It's hard to keep them straight!. I sprayed a few coats of fillable primer, sanded it down with 400 grit and peeled the tape up. It looks good and wasn't as difficult as I'd thought it would be. Most of the panel will be overlap type but on the cowl and nacelles they are butt panels

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Updated July 14, 2009