Finishing - Page 3
11/20/05 - For weight saving I removed all the 1/8" x 1/4" the bracing from the rear end. Since it's fiberglassed the bracing won't be needed and it removed about 1.5 oz..
On a windy day in November I sanded all the filler/primer off of everything with 240 grit. That took a lot of elbow grease and sand paper since that filler/primer loads up the paper fast. If you go too long you can't clean it out and need to get a new piece. I will sand it next with 320 then draw the panel lines.
11/23/05 - I covered the ailerons, elevators and rudders with WorldTex, a fabric iron on. Great stuff! It went on easy and looks good. It really conforms around corners very well. A real pleasure to use. I also made up a test piece for testing the painting of the fabric. I sprayed on some Rustoleum "Chrome" and it looks good with only one coat. The reason for using chrome was that my last can of chrome said it was 90% aluminum. It may be too shiny though so I will try some "Aluminum" as I don't want them to be shinier than the flite-metal.
1/1/06 - It's been awhile since I logged anything. I keep thinking I'll sit down and write but I'm able to send that to the back of my list way too easily during the Christmas season.
The bottom of the stab. The little bit of Flite-Metal I did. It's one piece and then I scribed the lines and buffed in different directions. After buffing it looks great. I did the other side but it didn't come out very well. I pealed it off and weighed it. It came out at .125 grams/sq.in. or .0044 oz./sq. in. which is twice the advertised weight.
Way back in November I thought I was ready to start applying the flite-metal and I did start putting it on the stab. I have since done a 180 and will paint instead. I don't feel comfortable using the metal in a couple of ways. Although it looks great when newly buffed, It's very easy to scratch and dent, especially when the surface isn't rock hard and mine isn't. ( In retrospect, I should have done a second, filler coat of epoxy) I know it would be looking pretty bad in no time. Also, it would add about 1.25 lbs to an already heavy bird. I could be wrong but I think the paint will be less than that. But mostly it's that painting will save me a bunch of time and I need that. I have got to get this project done.
I haven't had much time to work on it in December but I did get a few things done.
Nose Gear Doors
I put in the nose gear doors. Not really finishing but I decided to do the inward opening doors which meant cutting a bigger hole in the fuselage and more filling/sanding. I got to thinking about it and it didn't seem that it be much more difficult to do than the clamshell doors and it turns out it wasn't. It also solves a problem I had because of the way the wheel retracts. Because of the arc of the wheel, the opening has to be longer than scale which meant either the doors would be longer or there would be a hole in front of the doors. This way I can make the doors longer and no one will ever notice. They are kind of unique in that they open inward. It creates more work and is a bit more complicated than outward opening clamshell doors but worth the effort. You can see in the pictures how it works. Pretty simple really. I cut & bent two lengths of 1/8" brass channel, glued them to 1/16" balsa, glued that into the door opening, supported the channel ends with balsa. The front track is a little better that the rear track, I didn't cut in in the middle but just bent it and it conforms to the fuselage shape better.
The doors are 1/16 balsa with 1/16" dia. Sullivan flexible tubing runners. I also used the flexible tubing for the servo control linkage. I glued the end of a servo arm to the door and put a easy connector on it.
Built a servo tray and installed it. I have a Jomar door sequencer for operating the doors and gear.
Nose Wheel Brake
Didn't have to do the brake before painting but I was on a roll. I'm using the brass on rubber kind of brake which is perfect for a Liberator because they used a nose wheel fender. The only way to make it work was to mount the servo on the gear leg and that turned out to be very easy to do. I made a little bracket to hold the brass fender/brake and a bracket for the JR 241 servo, drill a hole in the torque links just big enough for some flex tubing and put two pieces - one in each hole that the pull string goes through. Works Great!
The Main Gear Struts
. During the Christmas break I worked on the main gear struts. I wasn't going to put them in but I was in the shop and started playing around with it and got the gear to work very well with the struts and it looks pretty good and I can do it without cutting too much of the gear mount structure away. The front strut is functional. The main problem is that I will have to do some surgery on the inner nacelles to to get the front strut mount in but now is the time to do it.
A while ago I cut the yokes down to a more scale shape but they needed more tweaking. I rounded over the main gear yokes on my router table using a carbide 1/4" round over bit. I made a jig to hold the yokes because I like my fingers a lot. That went as good as I thought it would. The carbide bit cut the aluminum like a hard wood. I finished them up with some 100 grit sand paper. Not exact scale but looks much better. This is something that Century Jet Retracts could & should do.